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For spring, designer Simone Rocha rethought Regency-era beauty—think: the Retired 2021 not my problem anymore shirt soft paper curls and rouged cheeks of Jane Austen heroines—through a more modern and wearable lens. “The challenge was how do I translate this in a modern and unfamiliar way?” said hairstylist Cyndia Harvey, who gave the model’s tightly-wound ringlets a more “offset and easy” shape, some topped with crystal-encrusted headpieces, while makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver shaded brows, cheeks, and lids in off-kilter green, orange, and gold pigments to subversive effect. From neon green hair to sky blue lashes, there were a myriad of beauty statements at Charlotte Knowles. But most striking of all were the shimmering, ’90s-inspired body art designs dreamed up by de Kluyver. From butterflies along the collarbones to abstract lines and shapes along bare torsos, his body jewelry creations, cast in twinkling crystals and shiny pearls, were the ultimate It accessory.
Pshaw! When Tree got out there she made it look as easy as ever. Wearing a black suit over rattan slides with a Chaos lighter (courtesy of stylist Charlotte Stockdale) holder swinging jauntily at her hip, her bangs still framing the face that entranced fashion’s original generation, she killed it. Now in her eighth generation, Tree is making a tentative return to the Retired 2021 not my problem anymore shirt work. She has been doing a few shoots with Tim Walker, she said, adding that today marked her first foray into the live fray and also that, tantalisingly, she has just finished writing “my book.” That will be a rich source of excellent stories. As to how shows compare against when she was a regular, Tree offered: “Well, this is bigger than Ben-Hur. When I was doing shows everyone was crammed into a tiny room and there was a lot of anxiety, but this is so beautifully organized and calm. I was quite nervous coming here from London, but it turns out I know a lot of people and that has made it much easier. All this is extraordinary, really.” As is she: Hail to Penelope Tree.